Below is a thought provoking segment from ABC News that demonstrates what so many real estate inspectors have been saying for so long: You need to have your home inspected by an independent professional inspector. Whether it's 100 years old, or brand new construction, there will be problems!

#realestate #lubbock #odessa #midland

http://abcnews.go.com/Nightline/video/home-heartbreak-dream-homes-turn-nightmares-43598626

Air conditioning systems require regular maintenance. Some maintenance should be performed by a licensed HVAC professional. Other maintenance can be performed by the home owner or occupants.

Here's some great info from Energy.gov.

An air conditioner's filters, coils, and fins require regular maintenance for the unit to function effectively and efficiently throughout its years of service. Neglecting necessary maintenance ensures a steady decline in air conditioning performance while energy use steadily increases. Check out our Energy Saver 101 Infographic: Home Cooling for more ways to help improve your comfort and the efficiency of your air conditioner.

AIR CONDITIONER FILTERS

The most important maintenance task that will ensure the efficiency of your air conditioner is to routinely replace or clean its filters. Clogged, dirty filters block normal airflow and reduce a system's efficiency significantly. With normal airflow obstructed, air that bypasses the filter may carry dirt directly into the evaporator coil and impair the coil's heat-absorbing capacity. Replacing a dirty, clogged filter with a clean one can lower your air conditioner's energy consumption by 5% to 15%.

For central air conditioners, filters are generally located somewhere along the return duct's length. Common filter locations are in walls, ceilings, furnaces, or in the air conditioner itself. Room air conditioners have a filter mounted in the grill that faces into the room.

Some types of filters are reusable; others must be replaced. They are available in a variety of types and efficiencies. Clean or replace your air conditioning system's filter or filters every month or two during the cooling season. Filters may need more frequent attention if the air conditioner is in constant use, is subjected to dusty conditions, or you have fur-bearing pets in the house.

AIR CONDITIONER COILS

The air conditioner's evaporator coil and condenser coil collect dirt over their months and years of service. A clean filter prevents the evaporator coil from soiling quickly. In time, however, the evaporator coil will still collect dirt. This dirt reduces airflow and insulates the coil, reducing its ability to absorb heat. To avoid this problem, check your evaporator coil every year and clean it as necessary.

Outdoor condenser coils can also become very dirty if the outdoor environment is dusty or if there is foliage nearby. You can easily see the condenser coil and notice if dirt is collecting on its fins.

You should minimize dirt and debris near the condenser unit. Your dryer vents, falling leaves, and lawn mower are all potential sources of dirt and debris. Cleaning the area around the coil, removing any debris, and trimming foliage back at least 2 feet (0.6 meters) allow for adequate airflow around the condenser.

COIL FINS

The aluminum fins on evaporator and condenser coils are easily bent and can block airflow through the coil. Air conditioning wholesalers sell a tool called a "fin comb" that will comb these fins back into nearly original condition.

CONDENSATE DRAINS

Occasionally pass a stiff wire through the unit's drain channels. Clogged drain channels prevent a unit from reducing humidity, and the resulting excess moisture may discolor walls or carpet.

WINDOW SEALS FOR ROOM AIR CONDITIONERS

At the start of each cooling season, inspect the seal between the air conditioner and the window frame to ensure it makes contact with the unit's metal case. Moisture can damage this seal, allowing cool air to escape from your house.

PREPARING FOR WINTER

In the winter, either cover your room air conditioner or remove and store it. Covering the outdoor unit of a central air conditioner will protect the unit from winter weather and debris.

HIRING A PROFESSIONAL

When your air conditioner needs more than regular maintenance, hire a professional service technician. A well-trained technician will find and fix problems in your air conditioning system.

The technician should:

• Check for correct amount of refrigerant
• Test for refrigerant leaks using a leak detector
• Capture any refrigerant that must be evacuated from the system, instead of illegally releasing it to the atmosphere
• Check for and seal duct leakage in central systems
• Measure airflow through the evaporator coil
• Verify the correct electric control sequence and make sure that the heating system and cooling system cannot operate simultaneously
• Inspect electric terminals, clean and tighten connections, and apply a non-conductive coating if necessary
• Oil motors and check belts for tightness and wear
• Check the accuracy of the thermostat.

Gas furnace burners won't stay lit? This is not an uncommon problem, and sometimes relates to how well the furnace has been previously maintained. Listed below are some common reasons for this problem:

The burner ignites but then goes out before heating up your home Situation: You turn the thermostat up, the furnace ignites and the burner comes on. The furnace stays on for awhile (maybe 1 minute, maybe 10 minutes) and then goes out. The fan continues to run even though the flames and pilot light go out. 
Possible causes:

• Overheating. Your furnace has a limit switch that keeps it from running if the heat exchanger is too hot. Dirty filters, closed or blocked vents and other blockages in airflow are common causes of an overheated furnace.
• A bad limit switch. The limit switch may be bad and need to be replaced.
• Bad thermostat. Your thermostat may be incorrectly telling your furnace that your home is warm enough, which shuts off the burners.
• Bad flame sensor. A direct ignition furnace has flame sensor over the burner that shut off the gas if it doesn’t sense a flame. 
• The best way to correct this issue and get your home warm again is to contact a licensed HVAC technician to evaluate your furnace. 

Thanks for reading! Check back again soon for more great information!

#realestate #inspection #home # heater #cold #texas #lubbock #odessa #midland #texas

Despite the fact that the property inspection industry is a pretty integral part of the real estate transaction process in Texas, you might be surprised to know that, in my estimation, many consumers don't have any idea what a home inspector really does!

I feel that it's my obligation as a professional to educate the consumer about the home inspection industry, and hopefully provide others with useful information that will help clear up confusion.

Below, you'll see my list of some of the questions many other inspectors are asked most often, and the correct answer to those questions. (Many of my answers will come directly from State of Texas Standards of Practice.)


One question I've heard alot lately:
How can you tell if a water heater or HVAC unit is going to continue working after the inspection?
-The short answer: We can't tell. A home inspector evaluates conditions at the time of inspection. 
The long answer: And neither can anyone else. I've seen water heaters in great condition, less than 5 years old, and then they go kaput. I've also seen 20+ year old water heaters that looked like they hadn't been maintained once, ever, continue to function as intended. Any contractor that tells the consumer that "this appliance will last for years to come" is just guessing. Logic says a new anything will work better than an older, used one. But life experience can tell any of us that this is not always true. 


Question: How come you didn't move that sofa to check the wall and floor behind?

Answer: Directly from TREC standards - (1) Accessible‐‐In the reasonable judgment of the inspector, capable of being approached, entered, or viewed without:(A) hazard to the inspector;   (B) having to climb over obstacles, moving furnishings or large, heavy, or fragile objects; (C) using specialized equipment or procedures; (D) disassembling items other than covers or panels intended to be removed for inspection; (E) damaging property, permanent construction or building finish; or (F) using a ladder for portions of the inspection other than the roof or attic space.


Question: How come my inspector didn't go in the crawlspace (or attic)? I know the plumber did the last time he was here!

Answer: The plumber may have been risking his own safety to enter the crawlspace. Most crawlspace accesses in West Texas are very small, as they were installed before the idea of confined spaces was relevant to us like it is today. And when I say small, I mean SMALL! Too small for a large child small! Texas Standards state: (5) The inspector is not required to: (A) enter a crawl space or any area where headroom is less than 18 inches or the access opening is less than 24 inches wide and 18 inches high. Now, imagine with me, the plumber entering one of those afformentioned tiny crawlspaces, and becomes stuck; then what? Call the fire department! Damage part of the home to get him out! Who pays for the damage? Yep! The plumber. NO THANKS!


Question: Why did the home inspector say that the bathroom exhaust fan has to terminate outside? My city does not require that, and this home has always been that way!

Answer: Again, per Texas Standards: (f) Mechanical exhaust systems and bathroom heaters. The inspector shall report as Deficient: (1) inoperative units; (2) deficiencies in performance or mounting; (3) missing or damaged components; (4) ducts that do not terminate outside the building; 


Question: (Usually from sellers that insist on being present for the inspection) Why do you take so many pictures?

Answer: I usually take anywhere from 125 - 200+ pics per inspection, based on the size and condition of the home. I take these photos in the best interest of all involved. Most will not make into the report because they are not of defects, but are reporting that a system, or fixture was operating at the time of inspection, or that an area of the home was inspected or in a certain condition when inspected.

Question: Can I come to the inspection? 

Answer: YES! Please feel free to attend some, all, or none of the inspection. Whether you are the buyer or seller, you have a right to be there if you'd like to as far as I'm concerned.

Question: How long does your inspection take to complete?

Answer: It varies. If you plan to attend the inspection, plan to set aside about 3 hours, at least.

Question: When will you send me my report?

Answer: I like to complete the report as soon as possible so that the info is fresh on my mind, and also so you can get the information you need promptly. You should have your report the same day barring natural disaster, though many times, I'll send it to you in an hour or two after I finish the onsite  inspection.

That's all for now! Check back soon for helpful info you can actually use!

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