​How common is mold in buildings?Molds are very common in buildings and homes. Mold will grow in places with a lot of moisture, such as around leaks in roofs, windows, or pipes, or where there has been flooding. Mold grows well on paper products, cardboard, ceiling tiles, and wood products. Mold can also grow in dust, paints, wallpaper, insulation, drywall, carpet, fabric, and upholstery.
The most common indoor molds are Cladosporium, Penicillium, and Aspergillus.  We do not have precise information about how often different molds are found in buildings and homes.
How do molds get in the indoor environment and how do they grow?Mold is found both indoors and outdoors. Mold can enter your home through open doorways, windows, vents, and heating and air conditioning systems. Mold in the air outside can also attach itself to clothing, shoes, and pets can and be carried indoors. When mold spores drop on places where there is excessive moisture, such as where leakage may have occurred in roofs, pipes, walls, plant pots, or where there has been flooding, they will grow. Many building materials provide suitable nutrients that encourage mold to grow. Wet cellulose materials, including paper and paper products, cardboard, ceiling tiles, wood, and wood products, are particularly conducive for the growth of some molds. Other materials such as dust, paints, wallpaper, insulation materials, drywall, carpet, fabric, and upholstery, commonly support mold growth.
How do you know if you have a mold problem?Large mold infestations can usually be seen or smelled.
How do molds affect people?Exposure to damp and moldy environments may cause a variety of health effects, or none at all. Some people are sensitive to molds. For these people, exposure to molds can lead to symptoms such as stuffy nose, wheezing, and red or itchy eyes, or skin. Some people, such as those with allergies to molds or with asthma, may have more intense reactions. Severe reactions may occur among workers exposed to large amounts of molds in occupational settings, such as farmers working around moldy hay. Severe reactions may include fever and shortness of breath.
In 2004 the Institute of Medicine (IOM) found there was sufficient evidence to link indoor exposure to mold with upper respiratory tract symptoms, cough, and wheeze in otherwise healthy people; with asthma symptoms in people with asthma; and with hypersensitivity pneumonitis in individuals susceptible to that immune-mediated condition.
In 2009, the World Health Organization issued additional guidance, the WHO Guidelines for Indoor Air Quality: Dampness and Mould pdf icon[PDF – 2.65 MB]external icon. Other recent studies have suggested a potential link of early mold exposure to development of asthma in some children, particularly among children who may be genetically susceptible to asthma development, and that selected interventions that improve housing conditions can reduce morbidity from asthma and respiratory allergies.
A link between other adverse health effects, such as acute idiopathic pulmonary hemorrhage among infants, memory loss, or lethargy, and molds, including the mold Stachybotrys chartarum  has not been proven. Further studies are needed to find out what causes acute idiopathic hemorrhage and other adverse health effects.
There is no blood test for mold.  Some physicians can do allergy testing for possible allergies to mold, but no clinically proven tests can pinpoint when or where a particular mold exposure took place.
Who is most at risk for health problems associated with exposure to mold?People with allergies may be more sensitive to molds. People with immune suppression or underlying lung disease are more susceptible to fungal infections. Individuals with chronic respiratory disease (e.g., chronic obstructive pulmonary disorder, asthma) may experience difficulty breathing. Individuals with immune suppression are at increased risk for infection from molds. If you or your family members have these conditions, a qualified medical clinician should be consulted for diagnosis and treatment.
How do you keep mold out of buildings and homes?Inspect buildings for evidence of water damage and visible mold as part of routine building maintenance, Correct conditions causing mold growth (e.g., water leaks, condensation, infiltration, or flooding) to prevent mold growth.
Inside your home you can control mold growth by:

• Controlling humidity levels;
• Promptly fixing leaky roofs, windows, and pipes;
• Thoroughly cleaning and drying after flooding;
• Ventilating shower, laundry, and cooking areas.

Specific Recommendations:

• Keep humidity levels as low as you can—between 30% and 50%–all day long. An air conditioner or dehumidifier will help you keep the level low. Bear in mind that humidity levels change over the course of a day with changes in the moisture in the air and the air temperature, so you will need to check the humidity levels more than once a day.
• Use an air conditioner or a dehumidifier during humid months.

• Be sure your home has enough ventilation. Use exhaust fans which vent outside your home in the kitchen and bathroom. Make sure your clothes dryer vents outside your home.
• Fix any leaks in your home’s roof, walls, or plumbing so mold does not have moisture to grow.
• Consider not using carpet in rooms or areas like bathrooms or basements that may have a lot of moisture.

How do you get the molds out of buildings, including homes, schools, and places of employment?Mold growing in homes and buildings indicates that there is a problem with water or moisture. This is the first problem to address.
Remove moldy items from living areas.  Once mold starts to grow in carpet, insulation, ceiling tiles, drywall, or wallboard, the only way to deal with the problem is by removal and replacement.
It is important to properly clean and dry the area as you can still have an allergic reaction to parts of the dead mold and mold contamination may recur if there is still a source of moisture.
Remove or replace carpets and upholstery that have been soaked and cannot be dried promptly.
Clean up and dry out your home thoroughly and quickly (within 24-48 hours) after any flooding.  Dig out mud and dirt .  Use a wet vacuum to remove remaining dirt. Scrub cleanable surfaces (such as wood, tile, stone) with soapy water and a bristle brush.  Thoroughly clean all hard surfaces (such as flooring, molding, wood and metal furniture, countertops, and sinks) with water and dish detergent. Dry surfaces quickly and thoroughly after cleaning. If you have a fan, air conditioner or dehumidifier that wasn’t affected by flooding use it to help the surfaces dry after you finish cleaning
Mold growth can be removed from hard surfaces with commercial products, soap and water, or a bleach solution of no more than 1 cup (8 ounces) of bleach in 1 gallon of water to kill mold on surfaces. Never mix bleach with ammonia or other household cleaners.
If you choose to use bleach to clean up mold:

• Never mix bleach with ammonia or other household cleaners. Mixing bleach with ammonia or other cleaning products will produce dangerous, toxic fumes.
• Open windows and doors to provide fresh air.
• Wear non-porous gloves and protective eye wear.
• Small areas (such as a shower, or an area the size of a door) can often be cleaned by residents, but larger areas might need more professional help.  Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions when using bleach or any other cleaning product.

If you have an extensive amount of mold and you do not think you can manage the cleanup on your own, you may want to contact a professional who has experience in cleaning mold in buildings and homes.
Are there any circumstances where people should vacate a home or other building because of mold?These decisions have to be made individually. If you believe you are ill because of exposure to mold in a building, you should consult your physician to determine the appropriate action to take.
I found mold growing in my home; how do I test the mold?If you can see or smell mold, a health risk may be present. You do not need to know the type of mold growing in your home, and CDC does not recommend or perform routine sampling for molds. No matter what type of mold is present, you should remove it. Since the effect of mold on people can vary greatly, either because of the amount or type of mold, you cannot rely on sampling and culturing to know your health risk.
A qualified environmental lab took samples of the mold in my home and gave me the results. Can CDC interpret these results?Standards for judging what is an acceptable, tolerable or normal quantity of mold have not been established. Sampling for mold can be expensive, and standards for judging what is and what is not an acceptable quantity of mold have not been set. The best practice is to remove the mold and work to prevent future growth.  If you do decide to pay for environmental sampling for molds, before the work starts, you should ask the consultants who will do the work to establish criteria for interpreting the test results. They should tell you in advance what they will do or what recommendations they will make based on the sampling results. The results of samples taken in your unique situation cannot be interpreted without physical inspection of the contaminated area or without considering the building’s characteristics and the factors that led to the present condition.
I heard about “toxic molds” and “black molds” that grow in homes and other buildings. Should I be concerned about a serious health risk to me and my family?There is always a little mold everywhere – in the air and on many surfaces.
Certain molds are toxigenic, meaning they can produce toxins (specifically “mycotoxins”). Hazards presented by molds that may produce mycotoxins should be considered the same as other common molds which can grow in your house. Not all fungi produce mycotoxins and even those that do will not do so under all surface or environmental conditions.
Mold growth, which often looks like spots, can be many different colors, and can smell musty.  Color is not an indication of how dangerous a mold may be.  Any mold should be removed and the moisture source that helped it grow should be removed.
There are very few reports that toxigenic molds found inside homes can cause unique or rare health conditions such as pulmonary hemorrhage or memory loss. These case reports are rare, and a causal link between the presence of the toxigenic mold and these conditions has not been proven.


From CDC.gov - ​https://www.cdc.gov/mold/faqs.htm

I bet we could all share a story or two regarding misinformation we've receieved from the internet, TV, social media, or friends and family!
Remember Y2K? The uncertainty & the panic for some people? Prepping homes, stockpiling groceries and supplies. All of the worry and none of the disaster, as the problems we were told were imminent come January 1st, 2000 amounted to nothing.
From the 1980's - killer bees! They're coming to get us! (We're still waiting...) 

One common myth I hear from time to time relates to all of the possible problems a new homeowner could face buying their first home. The concerns vary; could be asbestos, mold, aluminum wiring, lead paint. This list goes on and on. Many of these concerns are perpetuated by the home improvement shows on TV that in my opinion, make a mountain out of a mole hill in order to drum up drama to improve ratings, etc. The fact is that the odds of actually running into any of these four issues in a West Texas home are very slim. Any mold can be hazardous to your breathing and allergies, but having a home overrun with mold would be unheard of in our dry climate. Asbestos, lead paint, and aluminum wiring are prone to homes from very specific time frames of construction only, and are a rare occurrence. 

What about energy efficiency? This has become a hot topic in recent years, sold as a "need" by contractors selling windows and doors, among other materials and services. You can research for yourself, but spending the money needed to install new windows will almost never "pay for itself" with energy savings. The insulation value of the very best windows will never save you enough over the cost of getting the windows installed. If you're getting new windows, it might be worth it based on appearance, emergency egress, etc. Improving insulation in your attic can benefit you for a relatively lower cost, but do your research. Return on investment may not add up to what you think it will!

What issues should a home owner be concerned about? Take a close look at your inspection report! There you should find valuable information provided by an experienced professional. Use it to your benefit and enjoy your home!

REVIEW:
Your first step as a home buyer should include completely reviewing the home inspection report. 
This may sound obvious, but you may be surprised to know that many home buyers don't ever access or review their inspection reports! Per the real estate licensing authority in Texas, the Texas Real Estate Commission, in regards to the inspection report - "It is important that you carefully read ALL of this information." "You" being the client, usually the home buyer. Time is usually short during option periods, etc. Make the most of it!

ADDRESS: 
What item(s) in the inspection report seem important to you to be corrected? What item(s) in the inspection report does your Agent recommend be addressed? Get on the same page early on, and if there is some issue listed on the inspection report or other aspects of the real estate process that you don't understand, check with your inspector for inspection issues, and your Agent for pretty much everything else!

KEEP IT:
Hang on to your inspection report, and eventually make sure to make repairs to EVERY ITEM listed as a defect on the report . Many defects listed on the average inspection report are what I would consider "Minor", meaning they are just part of life as a homeowner. Plan to fix these over the weeks, months, or years ahead as a homeowner. Some are certainly more time sensitive than others, so prioritize accordingly. Assuming you hired a licensed, experienced pro to inspect the home, their advice and recommendations are invaluable to you as a homeowner. Don't waste all that professional experience and knowledge!

We hope this helps you take those crucial next steps towards home ownership! Check back here soon for more helpful tips and other great info!

So who should you trust?

Sometimes, this question is not so easy to answer. 

Here's the scenario: you have a home inspected, and the home inspector is telling you such and such needs to be repaired, then, you hire a contractor to fix the issue, and the contractor is telling you something very different.
Who should you believe?
You might think I'm going to say "the inspector", ya know, cause I'm an inspector! Surprise! I'll actually tell you there's a very good chance both the inspector and the contractor are correct. 
Here's why: the inspector was basing their recommendation on what they could see. As you may or may not know, an inspector does not and should not disassemble components in order to inspect them. A home inspection is by definition (legally!) a visual inspection. The contractor may be basing their recommendation on info gained from a much more invasive process. In other words, the contractor can see what an inspector can't.
BEWARE: THE #1 THING that makes a contractor's opinion or recommendation different than an inspector's opinion or recommendation is THIS>>>> A contractor is making their recommendation with the expectation that it will provide them with additional income! In other words, the plumber says you need a new water heater. And of course this is added business for said plumber.
A licensed professional home inspector in TEXAS cannot, by LAW, offer to make repairs on your recently inspected home. It's an ethics issue. 
Tradesman are not held to this standard. This is why you should view all recommendations from professionals through the lense of "What are they hoping to gain from what they're telling me?"

As the old adage goes, "Caveat Emptor" or, Buyer Beware!

Check out our blog for some inexpensive, simple fixes that will make for an easier to overcome inspection report!

#1 - Anti siphon valves on exterior hose bibs
What is it? An anti siphon valve hose prevents outside water from siphoning through an outside faucet and contaminating the drinking water used in a home, or the municipal or well water supply the home is connected to. Believe it or not, if the local fire department were to connect to a hydrant in your neighborhood, the pump suction from their engine has enough muscle to suck the water out of your garden hose & into the municipal water supply without these devices installed on your hose bibs!
Why it's considered a defect? TREC SOP states: the lack of back-flow devices, anti-siphon devices, or air gaps at the flow end of fixtures is considered a defect.
How much do they cost? Around $5 for a brass (better) version.
Where should they be? At all exterior hose bib locations.
Simple to install by hand, these will fit on a hose bib before the garden hose is installed.

#2 - Range anti-tip device
What is it? An anti tip device is designed to prevent a range (free standing oven/stove combo) from tipping over when weight is applied to the front of the appliance. Children die every year due to this metal bracket not being installed properly on these appliances.
Why is it considered a defect? TREC SOP states: the absence of an anti-tip device is considered a defect.
How much do they cost? From $5 - $10 depending on the brand and style.
Where should they be? If you're unsure if you need one, here's a quick checklist:
Is your range free standing? Most are, but some are built into the cabinetry, and therefore likely wouldn't require one. 
Carefully slide the range away from the wall, and look along the floor (you can use a smartphone to save reaching over so far). If in place as needed, it will be found along the floor and look something like this:
​

Follow the instructions from the manufacturer and install where needed. Simple and inexpensive. One less defect to be found on your next inspection report, but more importantly, your home is now a little safer!

#3 Smoke and carbon monoxide alarms/detectors
What is it? Smoke and carbon monoxide alarms/detectors are designed to prevent your death from smoke or carbon monoxide inhalation, and possibly reduce damage to your home in the event of a fire. You'd be surprised how many fire fighters homes I've inspected that were missing these important appliances!
Why is it considered a defect? TREC SOP states the absence of working smoke alarms: (I) in each sleeping room; (II) outside each separate sleeping area, in the immediate vicinity of the sleeping rooms; and (III) in the living space of each story of the dwelling is considered a defect.
​Where should they be? See above & follow manufacturers instructions.
How much do they cost? Smoke alarms can be purchased for $5 - $10 each for a battery operated version.

Here's hoping your inspection goes smoothly and you'll have fewer defects to correct! If you'd like to learn more about homes and home inspection related topics, feel free to check back here often. Thanks for your time!
​

 Getting older stinks! And we all can admit that some folks age better than others. I mean, have you seen William Shatner? The man is in his late 80's and looks like he's in his 50's!

The "aged well idea" can be said for other things too. I have completed 2500+ inspections to date in West Texas, and I've therefore seen at least that many HVAC units. Remember, I have based this info on my own experience only, and your mileage may vary.
Based on this experience, here are the brands that seem to last longer to me:
Trane - It's hard to stop a Trane, and that seems to be more than an Ad slogan. I have seen dozens of Trane units well over 25 years old. 
Lennox - I haven't seen nearly as many Lennox units that are as ancient as Trane units, but I can tell you that Lennox units do seem to age well. The unit in the photo was almost 15 years old, but as you can see, looked much newer.
Carrier - I have seen a number of older Carrier units still going strong. My own home has a Carrier unit that's nearing 20 years old, and still plugging along.
Rheem/Ruud - For whatever reason, this brand seems to have been particularly popular in West Texas in the early 2000's. At any rate, I've seen a number still cruising along and nearing 20 years old.
There are a number of other brands I don't see all that often and therefore can't make a good judgement on their longevity.
I'm sorry if your home has a Payne or Goodman unit. From what I've seen, these seem to be cheaper units and I rarely if ever see them older than 10 years.

According to the US Dept of Energy, the national average lifespan for an A/C unit is about 15 years, so if your unit is older than 15 years, look at it like a WIN and plan for replacement soon!

Maintenance can help too. Whether you reside in Lubbock, Midland/Odessa, Snyder/Colorado City or any of our awesome West Texas small towns, one thing is for sure: In the summer it's hot, in the spring and fall the dirt blows, and in the winter, it gets cold! Employing a professional to inspect and service these units at least annually can sometimes improve lifespans and save you $$ in the long run.
 

After thousands of inspections completed all over West Texas, I've heard more than my share of inaccurate information about property inspections, property inspectors, and all that's associated. Buying a home in Lubbock, Odessa/Midland, Snyder/Colorado City, or any of our awesome small towns in West Texas can be daunting. Knowledge is power as they say - check out the info below to learn more

More often than not, this incorrect information comes from misunderstandings and miscommunication.  As I've mentioned before in earlier posts, buying a home is one of the biggest decisions you'll make in your life. It's important to know what we're doing before we do it in most any situation, particularly when making such a big investment. This is where research & communication come in. Research on your part: learn all you can about the home buying process, the home inspection process, the appraisal process, the financing process, the closing process, etc. Research on your Agent's part is crucial too. Also, are they good communicators? And are you a communicator in return? 

As far as the home inspection process is concerned, I can help with some common misconceptions that I hear often:

Myth #1 - Whatever the inspection report says, it has to be fixed before the home is purchased.
I hear this one often from first time home buyers and buyers moving to West Texas from out of state. The truth is the exact opposite; nothing HAS to be fixed per any laws. Now, financing can absolutely impact this, but financing has no bearing on home inspectors or what we are licensed by the State of Texas to inspect and report.

Myth #2: The inspector will be able to tell you what class of shingles are on the roof and how old the roof is. 
Surprisingly, this myth I believe is perpetuated by Realtors more often than not. And it's just simply not true. An inspector could make an educated guess at both, (much like a roofing contractor is sometimes happy to do). But to know the class of shingle, or the age of the roof, you'd need to get that info from the roofing contractor that installed it. This is sometimes difficult info to come by; is the roofer still in business? Does the seller know who installed the roof? Etc. This may be why some realtors want the inspector to stick their neck out on this issue. If you find an inspector that will, trust me, he or she is simply guessing, and nothing more!

Myth #3: The inspector moves furniture and the seller's other belongings in order to inspect.

I haven't heard this one in a while, but again, simply not true. To put this in perspective, look at this from the seller's point of view. Your selling your home and you have nice floors, and attractive furniture. Now picture someone coming in and sliding your couch or entertainment center out of the way in order to look behind them. The floor is scratched or the furniture is damaged. Then, the buyuer ends up not purchasing the home. The seller has scracthed floors and now has to try again selling their home! See the predicament? 
Again, any inspector who willingly moves personal belongings in order to inspect is either very new to the industry, or very desperate! Either of those are not a reason to choose a home inspector!

Myth #4: The inspector inspects every single component in the home during an inspection. 
This one can truly hurt you as a home buyer if you go into the home inspection looking for this expectation to be met. It's simply not realistic for any person to complete such a tall order, day in and day out. Think of how different homes are. Some have sprinkler systems, some don't. Some have septic systems, some don't. Some have pools, many don't. Some have cable for TV and internet, some don't. Some have water softeners and RO systems, some don't. I could continue, but you get the idea. Every licensed home inspector in Texas is required to inspect specific areas of the home or property. These areas they are to inspect are generally components you would find at the vast majority of homes or properties. Things like electrical systems, plumbing systems, etc.  

Knowledge is power! Research and communicate!

#home #inspector #property #homeinspection #lubbock #texas

Without question, this inspector and likely every other inspector in Texas has one defect they identify more than all others:
"A cooking range anti tip device was not installed at the time of inspection. Correction is recommended. This safety device is commonly supplied with the appliance from the manufacturer."
What's so important about this little piece of metal? The range can easily overturn when the door is opened, and can potentially fall forward onto whomever might be in front of it. Children die all too often due to the lack of a missing anti tip device on ranges. In addition to being a terrible tragedy each time it happens, it is 100% preventable!

How you can check your oven for an anti tip device: Look behind the oven along the floor. If the anti tip device is present, you should see a metal bracket along the wall near the floor.
Not there?
One of the rear legs of the stove slides into the tilt bracket, securing the stove to the floor. The brackets come as part of the stove’s assembly kit or you can purchase them at a hardware store. You only need a few basic tools to complete this project.

Things You Will Need

• Drill and drill bits
• Plastic anchors
• Screws
• Screwdriver

As always, this is not a repair recommendation, so attempt at your own risk. Not sure if you're up to the task? There's no shame in asking for help from a handy friend, family member, or pro!

1.Turn off power to the stove or unplug it. If the stove is hardwired, turn off power to it at the breaker box. You don’t need to disconnect the gas line, if applicable, but please be extra careful if your range is a gas model. It is possible to damage the gas line or connection when moving the range if you're not careful!

2. Pull (slide if possible) the stove away from the wall, taking care not to damage the floor.

3.Locate the template for the stove anti-tip bracket. It may be with the installation instructions or packed with the bracket.

4.Set the template on the floor so the back of it is flush with the wall and the side is flush with the cabinet next to the stove. If the cabinet’s counter top has an overhang on the side, move the template so the outside edge aligns with the counter top edge. Mark the location of the two screws required for the bracket onto the floor.

5. Drill two 1/8-inch pilot holes through the marked spots for the tilt bracket on a wood floor. Drill 3/16-inch pilot holes with a masonry bit for ceramic or stone floors. Insert plastic anchors into the holes.

6. Attach the tilt bracket to the floor with screws from the assembly kit. Use longer screws if your flooring is too thick for the screws to penetrate into the sub-floor.

7.Turn the back adjustable legs of the stove counterclockwise to extend them. Both legs should extend the same length.

8.Push (slide if possible) the stove into position, taking care not to scuff the floor. Do not pinch or bind the electrical cord or gas line. As you push the stove all the way back to the wall, you should feel and hear the adjustable leg on the side with the bracket slide into the anti-tip bracket. If you aren’t sure it’s aligned, pull out the bottom drawer of the stove. You should be able to see the bracket. If not, open the oven door and pull out the racks to see if the stove still wants to tip. If necessary, pull the stove away from the wall and push it back again at a slightly different angle.

9. Double check your work. Then, turn the power on again or plug the stove into its outlet.

Tips

• It doesn’t matter what side of the stove you install the bracket.
• Some manufacturer’s use L-shaped tilt brackets that screw into the wall. Follow manufacturer’s directions on how to use the template for these models.
• If no template is available, measure the distance of the leg from the back and side of the stove. Set the bracket on the floor at those same dimensions and drill pilot holes so you can secure the bracket.

A real estate inspector is tasked with the difficult job of finding defects in a home that at least in theory, should not have defects. I have inspected hundreds of newer construction properties with dozens of defects. Below is a prime example: A townhome less than 12 months old, already showing multiple problems, including....